Grandma Rosie's Texas Home
• Tue 26 Aug 2008 - Herb Marinade
Herb Marinade
Here's a way to use the overload of herbs you probably have right now. It's great on chicken, and will coat about 3 large chicken breasts. Marinate for a few hours and then cook on the grill as usual.
Herb Marinade:
2 T. minced parsley
2 t. minced thyme
2 t. fresh rosemary
2 sage leaves
1 t. fresh minced tarragon
1/3 c. sherry vinegar
1 T. olive oil
Fresh ground pepper to taste
Diabetic Meals, 1996 |
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• Sun 17 Aug 2008 - Get Three Perennials for the Price of One!
Get Three Perennials for the Price of One!
Dig and Divide
Dig them up, chop into pieces, and replant. By dividing your perennials, you'll not only get more (free) plants, but — harsh as the process sounds — your perennials will actually appreciate it. In fact, most perennials grow best when divided every three to five years. You'll know your perennials are ready for dividing when flower size diminishes and the center of the plant becomes brown and dead.
Read the rest of this great article at:
http://www.garden.org/celebratingtheseasons/?page=august_divide
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• Sat 2 Aug 2008 - Flowers for Beneficial Insects
Flowers for Beneficial Insects
by Diane Linsley
Annual Flowers and Herbs
Alyssum (Lobularia maritima) -- Attracts hoverflies and parasitic
mini-wasps.
Basil (Ocimum basilicum) -- The flowers attract bees and other
beneficial insects. The aromatic foliage supposedly repels aphids and
tomato hornworms.
Borage (Borago officinalis) -- The flowers are edible, and the young
leaves can be cooked like spinach. Attracts beneficial insects while
repelling tomato hornworms. Lacewings lay their eggs on the leaves.
Self-sows prolifically.
Calendula (Pot Marigold, Calendula officinalis) -- Edible, orange or
yellow flower petals. Attracts bees, butterflies and hoverflies.
Cornflower (Centaurea sp.) -- Attracts lacewings, ladybugs,
hoverflies, parasitic mini-wasps, bees and butterflies.
Cosmos -- Attracts lacewings, hoverflies and parasitic mini-wasps.
Dill (Anethum graveolens) -- The leaves are used in recipes, and the
umbel flowers attract lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies and parasitic
mini-wasps. A favorite food of the Eastern black swallowtail
butterfly. Can be used as a trap crop for aphids. Self-sows.
Love-in-a-Mist (Nigella damascena) -- This self-sowing annual has
beautiful, blue flowers in early summer, followed by ornamental seed
pods. The seeds are edible and can be used in fruit salads and baked
goods. Nigella sativa (Black Cumin) has spicy, pepper-flavored seeds.
Marigold (Tagetes sp.) -- The flowers attract butterflies and
hoverflies, and the roots produce a secretion that kills root-eating
nematodes in the soil. The flower petals are edible.
Nasturtium (Tropaeolum sp.) -- These edible flowers should be in
every salad garden.
Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) -- Attracts bees like crazy. Birds eat
the seeds in autumn. Plant sunflowers where they won't shade the
vegetables.
Zinnia (Zinnia elegans) -- A wonderful flower for attracting
hummingbirds, hoverflies, parasitic wasps and butterflies.
Perennial Flowers and Herbs
Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum) -- Edible, licorice-flavored
leaves for tea. Spikes of blue flowers attract bees, butterflies and
beneficial insects. Blooms the first year from seed.
Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatile) -- The bright yellow flowers bloom
in May, providing an early food source for ladybugs and hoverflies.
Bronze Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare 'Purpureum') -- Handsome bronze
foliage. The flowers attract lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies,
parasitic mini-wasps and butterflies, and the foliage feeds
swallowtail butterfly larvae. Freshly-ground fennel seeds are great
for sausage and spagghetti sauce, and the leaves are used in fish
dishes.
Catnip (Nepeta) -- Attracts bees, butterflies and beneficial insects.
There are both edible and ornamental varieties.
Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) -- Leaves and flower buds are used in
recipes. Makes a nice edging. Deadhead to prevent excessive self-
sowing. Attracts bees and butterflies like crazy.
Garlic Chives (Allium tuberosum) -- The flowers attract bees and
beneficial insects. The leaves have a nice, strong garlic flavor.
Chives and garlic chives make good companion plants for roses because
they repel aphids.
Golden Marguerite (Anthemis tinctoria) -- The daisy-like flowers
attract lacewings, ladybugs, hoverflies, tachinid flies and parasitic
mini-wasps.
Hesperis (Dame's Rocket) -- Pretty purple or white flowers. The young
leaves are edible. Attracts bees and butterflies.
Lavender 'Lady' (Lavandula angustifolia) -- A nice compact lavender
for the herb garden. The flowers attract hoverflies and bees. The
fragrant foliage is used in potpourri. Blooms the first year from
seed.
Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis) -- The lemon-flavored leaves make a
good tea. The tiny flowers attract hoverflies, tachinid flies and
parasitic mini-wasps.
Lemon Bee Balm (Monarda citriodora) -- Like the name says, it
attracts bees like crazy. The lemon-scented leaves are edible, and
the flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds.
Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) -- The umbel flowers attract
hoverflies, tachinid flies and parasitic wasps. Parsley is a favorite
food of Eastern black swallowtail butterfly larvae.
Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) -- This perennial wildflower
is sometimes listed as an herb because the roots are used in herbal
medicine as an immune stimulant. The flowers attract bees and
butterflies.
Rocky Mountain Penstemon (Penstemon strictus) -- Lovely spikes of
blue flowers in June and July. Attracts ladybugs, hoverflies,
hummingbirds and bees.
Sage (Salvia sp.) -- There are many forms of sage, including culinary
sage. They all attract bees and butterflies, and some species attract
hummingbirds.
Speedwell (Veronica spicata) -- Attracts ladybugs and hoverflies.
Thyme (Thymus sp.) -- Attracts bees, hoverflies, tachinid flies and
parasitic mini-wasps.
Viola -- I let these self-sow wherever they like. They don't disturb
the vegetables, and the edible flowers make nice cake decorations.
Yarrow (Achillia sp.) -- Attracts ladybugs, hoverflies and parasitic
mini-wasps.
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• Mon 30 Jun 2008 - I thought this was interesting!
• Mon 9 Jun 2008 - 14--- 2 minute "how to " garden Videos
• Mon 9 Jun 2008 - How To Kill Snails and Slugs - The Definitive Guide
• Thu 5 Jun 2008 - Garden Plans for Birds & Butterflies
• Sat 31 May 2008 - Check out the "how to" on this at Herb Companion online....
• Tue 13 May 2008 - Recipe for soap spray..........From OHG Files
From OHG Files
recipe for soap spray:
1 teaspoon to several teaspoons per gallon of water, start at the
lower concentration and work up to what works best, watching your plants
and the critters. Make sure you use a soap that has little or no additives
such as fragrance or detergents. Ivory soap, shaklee basic H are
some.
recipe for soap spray:
1 teaspoon to several teaspoons per gallon of water, start at the
lower concentration and work up to what works best, watching your plants
and the critters. Make sure you use a soap that has little or no additives
such as fragrance or detergents. Ivory soap, shaklee basic H are
some.
Hot stuff spray:
Chop grind, or liquefy 1 garlic bulb, and 1 small onion. add 1 tsp of
powdered cayenne pepper and mix with one quart of water. Steep one
hour, strain through cheese cloth, then add 1 tblsp of liquid dish soap to
the strained liquid, mix well. Spray plants thoroughly making sure to
cover the undersides of the leaves. Can be stored for up to one week
in the refrigerator.
Bug Juice: ( or revenge of the organic gardener:)
Collect about 1/2 cup of the bugs in your garden, especially ones
that seem sluggish or sick. put the insects in an OLD blender with about 2 cups
of water to liquefy. Strain the mix, then dilute with 1/4 cp of this
concentrate with 1-2 cps of water in a sprayer. You can store the
left over in the freezer, just make sure you have it labeled well! Spray the
plants thoroughly on both sides of the leaves. You can re-apply once
or twice a week, although some bug juice sprays are reported to be
effective for as long as 2 months.
Quick hot pepper spray:
Pour some red hot sauce into some water in a sprayer, run out and
spray away!
Repeat for at least three days.
This info comes almost verbatim from "the Organic Gardener's Handbook
of Natural Insect and Disease Control" Wonderful handy dandy book just
full of info.
Chop grind, or liquefy 1 garlic bulb, and 1 small onion. add 1 tsp of
powdered cayenne pepper and mix with one quart of water. Steep one
hour, strain through cheese cloth, then add 1 tblsp of liquid dish soap to
the strained liquid, mix well. Spray plants thoroughly making sure to
cover the undersides of the leaves. Can be stored for up to one week
in the refrigerator.
Bug Juice: ( or revenge of the organic gardener:)
Collect about 1/2 cup of the bugs in your garden, especially ones
that seem sluggish or sick. put the insects in an OLD blender with about 2 cups
of water to liquefy. Strain the mix, then dilute with 1/4 cp of this
concentrate with 1-2 cps of water in a sprayer. You can store the
left over in the freezer, just make sure you have it labeled well! Spray the
plants thoroughly on both sides of the leaves. You can re-apply once
or twice a week, although some bug juice sprays are reported to be
effective for as long as 2 months.
Quick hot pepper spray:
Pour some red hot sauce into some water in a sprayer, run out and
spray away! Repeat for at least three days.
This info comes almost verbatim from "the Organic Gardener's Handbook
of Natural Insect and Disease Control" Wonderful handy dandy book
just full of info.
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• Thu 8 May 2008 - Attracting Winged Beauties Into Your Garden
Part of the beauty of an organic garden is watching birds, butterflies, dragonflies, and bees foraging among the flowers — dipping in for a drink of sweet nectar, loading up with golden pollen, and plucking at tender seeds and berries. But growing organically isn't the only way to ensure visits from these winged beauties. Growing the right plants and flowers helps attract them.
Get "hummers" to hover in your yard. If you want to witness magic, attract hummingbirds. Creating a hummer haven is easy — think red and tubular! Hummers will flock to clematis (Clematis spp.), trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens), cypress vine (Ipomoea quamoclit), and their favorite plant, trumpet vine (Campsis radicans). Also consider red-flowered lobelia, salvia, fuchsias, morning glories, mallow, penstemons, and bee balm.
Invite them in with sugar water. Make your own sugar water for hummingbird feeders. The ratio is four parts water to one part table sugar. Bring water to a boil, then add sugar and stir until it dissolves completely. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature before filling your feeder. Change the nectar once a week when temperatures are below 80 degrees F. On warmer days change it every three days so the nectar doesn't ferment and spoil. Unused nectar will store for two weeks in refrigerator. Clean your feeder monthly with a solution of 1/4 cup of bleach mixed with 1 gallon of water. Soak the feeder for an hour in the bleach solution and scrub with a bottlebrush. Rinse well and refill with nectar.
Grow It and They Will Come!
Songbirds:
Attract songbirds with a combination of shrubs, flowers, and trees that will provide seeds and fruits all season.
Trees provide food and cover from predators.
Flowering dogwood (Cornus florida)
White cedar (Thuja occidentalis)
Red cedar (Juniperus virginiana)
American mountain ash (Sorbus americana)
Crabapple (Malus varieties)
Flowers provide fruit and seed.
Bee balm (Monarda spp.)
Penstemon (Penstemon spp.)
Goldenrod (Solidago hybrids)
Sunflower (Helianthus annuus)
Cosmos (Cosmos spp.)
Tickseed (Coreopsis spp.)
Aster (Aster spp.)
Shrubs and vines provide food and cover.
Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia)
Blueberry (Vaccinium spp.)
Japanese yew (Vaccinium spp.)
Cotoneaster (Podocarpus macrophylla)
Common juniper (Juniperus spp.)
Butterflies:
Bring in butterflies with nectar-rich flowers.
Butterfly bush (Buddleia spp. Note that these shrubs can be invasive in some parts of the country.)
Yarrow (Achillea spp.)
Sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus)
Violets (Viola spp.)
Bee balm (Monarda spp.)
Lilac (Syringa spp.)
English lavender (Lavandula spp.)
Passion flower (Passiflora spp.)
Dill (Anethum graveolens)
Swamp milkweed (Asclepias spp.)
Sunflower (Helianthus annuus)
Lupine (Lupinus spp.)
Aster (Aster spp.)
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• Wed 7 May 2008 - HERBS 'N SPICES: GROWING TIDBITS
HERBS 'N SPICES: GROWING TIDBITS
Herbs such as rosemary, lavender and sage are VERY
drought tolerant. They actually like the soil on the drier
side, BUT this is after their roots have become settled
and they are established. When these plants are young
you should provide them with extra water until they are
older and their roots can grow to a deeper level. One
ideas is to dig little "trenches" around the plants and fill
them with water to provide that extra moisture that will help
them.
MAKING COMPOST TEA
Compost tea is a healthy, chemical free "beverage" for
your plants! There are many ways you can make it, but
one simple way is to make it with comfrey leaves. They
are good for the soil, and the tea is good for your plants.
Using a five gallon bucket that you've filled half way with
water, fill it with fresh comfrey leaves. Set the bucket in
the sun, and allow it to ferment until the water turns brown.
It may smell at first, but the odor will go away. To use your
"tea", add one cup of it to a gallon of water and use it on
your new and your established plants.
DIVIDING HERBS
Some herbs can be dug up in the early spring or fall and
divided as you would many perennial flowers. These include
chives, oregano, yarrow, mints and lemon balm. Also, if you
are growing mint in the ground, go out after a good rain and
pull up the runners. They can spread VERY quickly, so you
want to pull it now!
MORE: Growing and using garlic chives--
http://www.oldfashionedliving.com/garlic-chives.html
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• Tue 29 Apr 2008 - One of my pretty Herb Beds
My herbs are coming back strong this year. We have had lots of rain for a change. This bed has 2 kinds of sage, bee balm, holly hocks, chives, blanket flower and coeopsis in it. |
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• Tue 29 Apr 2008 - An Herbal Tea Garden
An Herbal Tea Garden
Why not make a change from your usual cup of store-bought coffee or tea and try your own homegrown herbal brew? Most herbs are easy to grow and don't need to take up a lot of space. If you have room, you can place the containers in this design in a bed surrounded by low creeping herbs, or they can stand alone on a sunny deck or patio (with the creeping herbs planted between the paving stones). The central container shown here is about 24 inches in diameter, the side pots are 12 inches in diameter. All the plants thrive in full sun, with average, very well-drained soil. The containers must have drainage holes so they don't become waterlogged. Harvest your "crop" regularly, thus keeping the plants cut back, so they remain bushy and compact and don't overpower their neighbors. Apply a liquid balanced fertilizer at half strength monthly. Mix and match the herbs to suit your taste. In cold regions, overwinter tender plants indoors in a sunny window.
Click here to download and print out this garden plan
Garden plans courtesy of Country Living Gardener.
Page 2: Key to Plan
Key to Plan
1. Wild strawberry (Fragaria vesca) 12 plants, planted 8 inches apart; 8 to 10 inches tall; 3-parted fan-shaped leaves; small white flowers followed by pea-sized seedy fruits. The leaves make a fruity tea; can be combined with sweet woodruff. Zones 4 to 8.
2. Variegated common thyme (Thymus vulgaris 'Silver Queen') 5 plants planted 18 inches apart; 6 to 10 inches tall; tiny leaves edged with silver; pale mauve flowers. Brew the leaves for a spicy, pungent tea. Zones 5 to 8.
3. Sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum) 8 plants planted 12 inches apart; 6 to 12 inches tall; starry whorls of foliage; in May topped with clusters of tiny white flowers. Its dried leaves make a mild, woodsy tea; excellent combined with strawberry leaves. Zones 3 to 9.
4. German chamomile (Matricaria recutita) 8 plants planted 12 inches apart; 12 to 24 inches tall; fine, ferny foliage. White daisy flowerheads are used for a mild, relaxing, applelike tea. Zones 4 to 8.
5. Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis 'Aurea') 1 plant; 12 to 24 inches tall; hardy perennial with yellow-variegated, mintlike foliage; prune regularly. Lemon-scented leaves make a refreshing hot or iced tea. Zones 4 to 9.
6. Pineapple mint (Mentha suaveolens 'Variegata') 1 plant, 12 to 24 inches tall; wrinkled, woolly leaves rimmed in cream. Not as robust as some other mints. Fragrant pineapple tea is delicious hot or cold. Zones 7 to 9.
7. Curly spearmint (Mentha spicata 'Crispa') 1 plant; 12 to 24 inches tall; bright green foliage with crinkled edges. The leaves make a pungent, minty tea often used to aid digestion. Zones 4 to 9.
8. Peppermint (Mentha x piperita) 1 plant; 2 feet tall; square stems clothed with opposite, toothed, lance-shaped leaves; clusters of mauve flowers along the stem. Brew leaves to make a refreshing tea that's soothing to the digestive system. Zones 4 to 9.
9. Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans) 1 plant; 36 inches tall; pineapple-scented bright green foliage; loose spikes of two-lipped scarlet flowers in fall. Leaves make a pineapple/melon-flavored tea. Zones 8 to 10.
10. Purple basil (Ocimum basilicum 'Purple Ruffles') 1 plant; 18 to 24 inches tall; purple-black leaves; clusters of pink flowers in a loose spike. Keep pinched for bushiness. Leaves and flowers make an attractive pinkish tea with mild peppery clove overtones. Annual.
11. Creeping rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis 'Prostratus') 1 plant; 6 to 12 inches tall, trailing; gray-green needlelike leaves and pale blue flowers. Use either flowers or leaves to make a piney tea. Zones 8 to 10.
12. Chocolate mint geranium (Pelargonium tomentosum 'Chocolate Mint') 1 plant; 12 inches tall; velvety gray-green leaves marked with chocolate; small white flowers. A minty tea is made from the foliage. Zones 10 to 11.
13. Pot marigold (Calendula officinalis) 2 plants planted singly; 18 inches tall; clammy foliage topped by bright orange daisies. Petals or whole flowers make a slightly bitter tea. Annual.
14. Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) 1 plant; 12 to 24 inches tall; aromatic gray-green leaves topped with long-stemmed spikes of purple flowers. Flowers make a delicious pale green tea with mild floral overtones. Zones 5 to 8.
15. Golden lemon thyme (Thymus x citriodorus 'Aurea') 1 plant; trailing, 6 to 8 inches tall; pungent, small, gold-rimmed leaves and tiny pinkish flowers. Leaves make a spicy tea.
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• Wed 9 Apr 2008 - Fire ant control..From a fellow OHG member
A few suggestions for fire ant control, gleaned from Howard Garrett,
AKA The Dirt Doctor over the years.
Aspartame - sprinkle a packet of artificial sweetener (Equal or Nutra
Sweet) onto the mount and the ants will be gone the next day. Always
thought that stuff was poison.
Individual mounds can be treated with a mixture of 1 1/2 oz of citrus
oil and a few drops of soap as a wetting agent fore each gallon of
water. Treat each mound with a gallon of the mixture.
Alternative mound treatment. Homemade concentrate, equal parts of
compost tea, molasses and orange oil. Use 4-6 oz of the concentrate
per gallon of water. However, Commercial products such as Garden-
Ville Fire Ant Control (Soil Conditioner) and GreenSense Soil Drench,
can be purchased instead of making your own.
Spray - Garrett Juice plus orange oil or d-limonene at 2 ounces per
gallon of spray. Mix the following ingredients into a gallon of
water.
1 cup manure based compost tea
1 ounce molasses
1 ounce natural apple cider vinegar
1 ounce liquid seaweed
And
2 ounces of citrus oil
As with all organic insecticides, pesticides and fungicides. You will
need to apply them several times a year. I suggest at least once a
month, until you have control of the situation.
Reference site pages.
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/view_question.php?id=123
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/view_question.php?id=204
Just my 2 cents.
Nate - Bastrop, TX - zone 8b |
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• Mon 7 Apr 2008 - ALOE VERA (Aloe Barbadenis)
We love Aloe Vera here. My dad and I both have easily broken skin. This plant comes in handy very often. 
ALOE VERA (Aloe Barbadenis)
External Applications:
Burns, wounds and minor skin irritations.
Oral Applications:
Acne, allergies, bed sores, canker sores, chicken pox lesions,
colitis, constipation, herpes, insect bites and stings, psoriasis,
scar tissue, sores, sunburn, gastric ulcers, leg ulcers, diabetes,
asthma, and more.
Scientific Updates:
Recent studies have confirmed that aloe has the ability to fight
against a variety of bacteria and fungi. Because it has impressive
antimicrobial properties, it makes an excellent preparation for the
treatment of burns. Its action has been observed against bacteria
which include the staphlococcus and streptococcus types. It has also
shown significant antiviral activity against HIV. In addition, aloe
vera has exhibited itself as an immune system stimulant, an anti-
inflammatory agent, a booster of tissue repair and a compound which
can actually lower blood sugar.
Disclaimer: If you suspect you have a disease or health related
condition of any kind, please learn and research what is causing it
and how to cure it. If you are unable to learn, you should contact
health care professional practicing natural and traditional forms of
healing. This information is for people who are ready to take FULL
RESPONSIBILITY for their health. The results reported MAY NOT occur
in all individuals.
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• Fri 4 Apr 2008 - 15 Potting Bench Plans - Free Resource Guide & Tips
• Thu 3 Apr 2008 - Spearmint Hot Pepper Horseradish Spray
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Spearmint Hot Pepper Horseradish Spray
This works on many different kinds of bugs- too many to list.
1/2 c of red cayenne peppers (hot)
spring water (read below)
1/2 c of fresh spearmint
1/2 c horseradish (root and leaves)
2 T of liquid detergent
1/2 c green onion tops
Mix all of the spearmint leaves, horseradish, onion tops and peppers
together with enough water to cover everything. Strain the solution.
After mixing all of these, add a half-gallon of water and add the
detergent also. To use this solution, mix 1/2 gallon of this solution
with 1/2 gallon of water. You can use this to spray almost any plant
safely. Store this mixture for a few days in a cool environment. |
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• Mon 31 Mar 2008 - Growing Potatoes...Jon Wood
Reposting from OHG Files
Growing Potatoes
Growing potatoes is so easy using my no dig, organic way. Potatoes
are one of the top three in vegetable growing popularity due to their
versatility. Boil 'em, mash 'em, fry 'em, bake 'em. It's hard to go
wrong with this staple in your diet.
Potatoes are also a great source of vitamins, minerals and iron. Most
of the goodness lies just beneath the surface of the skin. Be very
careful and keep some of the skin intact when preparing for cooking.
If you peel the potato, most of its nutrients are lost, giving you
only starch.
How to grow potatoes
Purchase some seed potatoes from your local Farm Store. The closer to
your home they grew, the more adapted to your growing weather and
methods they'll be. Seed potatoes will bring better yields than using
taters from the grocery shelf.
You can 'chit' them first (allowing them to start to grow) before
planting, simply by placing them in a sunny spot.
Place your seed potatoes directly on the ground about 12-14 inches
apart. Cover them with a 50/50 blend of straw with old manure, blood
and bone and compost. Water generously. Keep them well watered
throughout their growing season.
In a couple of weeks, the tops will emerge through the straw. As they
grow, keep topping them up with the enriched straw blend, making sure
the tubers don't get exposed to sunlight. This can turn them green
and make them toxic.
Potatoes take 14-16 weeks to mature. When they flower, they are
getting close to maturity. When the plants begin to die back and
yellow, the crop is ready for harvest.
The beauty with growing them under a straw mat is that you take the
guess work out of the growing. You can actually lift the corner of
the straw and see your potatoes developing.
When you are close to harvest, you simply pull out some of the bigger
ones for early eating, without killing off the plant.
On the ground, in your no til garden bed or inside an old tire (for
containment) these things will grow anywhere given the right
conditions.
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• Fri 28 Mar 2008 - Trellises in the Vegetable Garden
Trellises in the Vegetable Garden
Many vegetable garden plants thrive when trained to a trellis. Not only does trellising make more room in your garden, it also maximizes air circulation and keeps plants off the soil, both of which can help prevent diseases. Soil-dwelling pests, such as slugs, will have a harder time reaching your crop. Plus, trellising also makes harvesting easier.
Plants to trellis include cucumbers, beans, summer squash, and tomatoes. If you plan to trellis, look for varieties labeled as vining or pole, rather than bush. For tomatoes, look for indeterminate, as opposed to determinate, varieties. Beans, cucumbers, and squash will climb on their own (though you may need to guide the vines to get them started) but tomatoes must be tied to the support. Melons can be trained to a trellis, but you'll have to support developing fruit, so its weight doesn't tear the vine or cause the whole setup to topple.
This is from my home Depot newsletter. I have tried several of these with great success. |
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• Tue 18 Mar 2008 - Herb of the week...My yard is full of this. I must have several acres of it
From Jon Wood OGH
Herb of the week
Henbit-Dead Nettle (Lamium amplexicaule, Linn.)
Family: Mint
One of the earliest honeybee plants. My bees are bringing in henbit
pollen by the basketful right now. Mom used to pick it and mix it
into a poultice to ease the pain and swelling of arthritis, ague, gout,
and other joint and muscle aches. She bruised its leaves, mixed with a
bit of canning salt, bacon fat or hog lard, and apple cider vinegar.
It's edible boiled like a pot herb, and it has been used as a fiber
plant and a dye plant in addition to its medicinal benefits.
Jon
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